Finally the time had come to visit the last frontier of the Indian sub-continent to complete my lifetime travel across all the geographical and climatic regions of India.On Tuesday(7/2/2023) had booked my on- line "Gold Ticket(Second Class)" on the "SPORTS(Society for Promotion of Nature Tourism and Sports)" website for the "Samudran Package Tour " of Lakshadweep islands costing a total of Rs 29,925. Lucky to get one of the last few tickets as this "Lakshadweep Samudram Cruise" was closed for almost entire 2022 .On Wednesday (1/12/2021) while on a cruise the ship had a major fire in the engine room and although no casualties the ship had to undergo repairs and maintenance .Hence was out of passenger/ cruise service for almost a year and the services resumed recently in early January 2023.
Friday(10/3/2023) Start of "5 DAY LAKSHADWEEP SAMUDRAM PACKAGE TOUR ON BOARD CRUISE/PASSENGER SHIP M.V.KAVARATTI :-Had arrived in Ernakulam from Mumbai on Wednesday (8/3/2023) by "1635 Nethravathi Express" . After a 2 night's stay at " St Antonys Lodge" on Friday( 10/3/2023) boarded the ferry to Willingdon Island and after almost a 3 Km marathon walk traced the building of Lakshadweep Wharf and Passenger boarding centre situated near the "F.C.I (Food Corporation of India)" Godown on Willingdon Island.On entering the building and after getting my luggage scanned had to visit the first floor office for verification and collection of my passenger ticket. The procedure was similar to airport terminal boarding and liquor is strictly prohibited as luggage .
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At 1500 hrs on Friday(10/3/2023) departure Kochi View of the gradually fading coastline as our ship heads deeper into the Ocean. |
At 1000 hrs after clearing all formalities checked in my bag at the "Luggage check in" counter on the ground floor of the building akin to a airport and boarded the bus inside the harbour jetty for transfer to the " M.V.Kavaratti" cruise ship berthed at Mattancherry wharf..After a short drive on reaching the wharf walked up the gangway and at 1030 hrs was in " Cabin No 365 " situated on the 3rd deck meant for 2nd Class passengers.M.V.Kavaratti has a capacity to carry a total of 700 passengers and 200 tons of cargo.Tourists on the "Samudram Package Cruise" have seperate air-conditioned "Cabin Class" accomodation on the 3rd,4th and 5th Decks of the ship. There are only 3 "Second Class Cabins(Gold Class)" with 4 tourists to a cabin while all the rest 84 Cabins are "First Class(Diamond Class)" with 2 tourists to a cabin.In 2015 M.V.Kavaratti was used for evacuating 4000 Indians from Yemen who were stranded due to the conflict in that country.My trolley bag was delivered to my cabin which had excellent A/C and a relief from the soaring temp of Kochi. Since "Second Class(Gold Class)" cabins have 4 passengers to a cabin the " Bibhuti Biswas" family from Bengal occupied the 3 other beds." SPORTS (Society for promotion of nature tourism and sports) Lakshadweep Samudram Tour" was housefull.Lunch was between 1300-1400 hrs on the 4th deck mess room hall's situated at the aft end of the ship with Starboard side hall being for vegetarians and Port side hall for non- vegetarians.The ship's officers mess was a small secluded section situated in-between the Vegetarian and non-vegetarian section and once upon a time i would occupy one of these chairs during my employment on various different types of ship's.Change is permanant.Huge rush and queue for food which was buffet style self service.Very average food of rice/ Chapati/ Non- veg chicken/ Fish fry/ vegetable / Sambar and watermelon slices for fruits.After lunch was back in our " 4 - beds/ room No 365" with me being the odd tourist among a tourist family .
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Ahoy ! Minicoy island sighted as "M.V.Kavarati"lowers anchor at anchorage point off Minicoy . |
Ship heaved anchor and set sail at approximately 1500 hrs and as for me had last sailed on a ocean cargo ship in 1998 and hence was sailing on a Ocean ship after almost 25 years although in 2017 did sail for approximately 2 hrs on the " Viking XRPS" ultra luxury ferry between Helsinki in Finland and Tallinn in Estonia on my European solo travel. " A sailor might quit the sea profession but the sea always beckons the sailor " proves true for me having served 23 years on/ off as a " Marine Engineer(1983-2006)" on various types of ships including tiny tug's. After decades saw the sight of seagulls following the ship for garbage food.Sea was very calm with just ripples and " M.V.Kavaratti " was cruising at a very good speed of approximately 13 knots. She averages between 12-14 knots depending on sea conditions.Passed alongside numerous fishing vessel's.Finally the jinx of 2016 was broken and at last was on board M.V.Kavaratti heading to Minicoy Island of the Lakshadweep Archipelago. The aft (Stern) and front(Bow) main deck(3rd Deck) of the ship was barricaded to prevent passengers into this sensitive restricted area of the ship .So young romantic copycat's trying to mimic " Titanic movie Style" photo shoots would have to settle for less prominent locales within the large ship.Tea was between 1600 – 1700 hrs
.Excellent tea with biscuits and " Reliance Jio" network was lost once we lost vision of the coastline and sailed into a endless horizon. No wonder the ultra wealthy or reclusive individuals seek solace and solitude on super luxury yachts or cruise ship's .
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Tourist Passengers wearing "Life Jackets" assembled on "1st Deck" to board launch for finally stepping onto Minicoy Island of Lakshadweep Archipelago. |
As a " CRUISE PASSENGER" there is a certain aura of mystique and soothing calmness just staring into the empty Ocean akin to meditation , yoga or spiritualism.Brought back memories of my generation’s era of sea sailing when phone's let alone internet was a distant dream and we seafarer's irrespective of rank/status would eagerly await our next port of call to receive mail/magazines,etc . Since there was no internet began documenting my travelogue on my phone "Word Document" akin to a laptop instead of pen/paper writing as was the case during my sea sailing era.Bizarrely ,i didn't even carry a pen or paper along with me which were once indispensable office and personal tools before arrival of laptop's and smartphone's .Change is permanent in lifestyle and technology. The Lakshadweep archipelago consists of a total of 36 Islands and the name Lakshadweep means one lakh islands in Malayalam and Sanskrit.Lakshadweep was formerly known as "Laccadive, Minicoy and Amindive" islands and in 1973 the islands were collectively named as Lakshadweep islands.The islands of Lakshadweep forms the smallest Union territory of India created in 1956 with a area of only 32 Sq Km ( 12 Sq Miles) and almost 93% of the population are Muslims belonging to the Sunni sect of Islam. The nickname for Lakshadweep islands is Coral Islands as the entire Lakshadweep Archipalego consists of coral formation islands.Island Kavaratti after which the Cruise/Passenger ship M.V.Kavaratti is named is the Capital of the Union territory of Lakshadweep.Out of the 36 islands only 10 Islands are inhabited which are Kavaratti, Agatti, Amini, Kadmat, Kiltan, Chetlat, Bitra, Andrott, Kalpeni and Minicoy. Bitra is the smallest of all having only a population of 271 persons (Census 2011). The uninhabited island Bangaram is used solely as a high cost private tourist resort island and is akin to living on a private island .Liquor or consumption of liquor is prohibited in entire Lakshadweeep islands except the uninhabited tourist island of Bangaram.We tourists of the "5 DAYS SAMUDRAM LAKHSHADWEEP TOUR" would be visiting the 3 inhabited Island's of Minicoy, Agatti and Kalpeni.” M.V.Kavaratti” belongs to Lakshadweep Union territory but is managed and crewed by S.C.I(Shipping Corporation of India)
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View of Minicoy Island from ship anchorage. Notice landmark tiny "One Coconut Tree Island" |
. There was a total of 181 Samudram tourists on board with the rest being Island passengers mostly travelling on 1st and 2nd Deck's in Bunk class accomodation.The ship had its limitations as there was no paid laundry service on board or space to dry clothes on board this largest indigenously built Indian cruise cum passenger ship. Disembarkation/Embarkation for cruise tourists/local passengers was on on 1st deck of the ship.Every cabin and common public access place had a loudspeaker for announcements to ship's staff,cruise tourists and common local Islander passengers .Hence the loudspeaker was in constant use at regular intervals and besides English and Hindi it was Malayalam that was the main language on the anouncement speakers.
After tea at 1630 hrs we tourists were given a debriefing of the tour schedule and types of water-sports on the 3 different islands on the 4th deck recreation hall situated at the bow end of the ship.
Our first island stop was to be Minicoy.Kavaratti which was originally among the 3 islands to be visited was cancelled and instead we would be taken to Agatti. Last cruise visit would be to Kalpeni island before finally returning back to home port Kochi. Kayaking was complimentary in Minicoy as also Glass bottom boat ride on Agatti Island and snorkeling on Kalpeni island. .Absolute amateur "Scuba Diving" costing .Rs 3000/ person was available on Agatti for which booking's had to be done in advance before arrival to the island.Later had a excellent hot water bathe and the ship's cabin was excellently maintained in catering to Samudram cruise tourists.
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Passenger seating sofa's on "Main Deck (3rd Deck)"of ship. This is actually a portable ship's tool box/store doubling as a sofa. |
Our first island stop was to be Minicoy.Kavaratti which was originally among the 3 islands to be visited was cancelled and instead we would be taken to Agatti. Last cruise visit would be to Kalpeni island before finally returning back to home port Kochi. Kayaking was complimentary in Minicoy as also Glass bottom boat ride on Agatti Island and snorkeling on Kalpeni island. .Absolute amateur "Scuba Diving" costing .Rs 3000/ person was available on Agatti for which booking's had to be done in advance before arrival to the island.Later had a excellent hot water bathe and the ship's cabin was excellently maintained in catering to Samudram cruise tourists.
Later Mr Bibhuti.Biswas ,a Bengali poet and fiction writer travelling with his entire family requested the “ Samudram Tour Manager” to accommodate me in some other cabin and to my good luck was
upgraded to another cabin on the same deck but at the extreme fore-end(bow) of the ship .Entered Cabin “ No 308” having just 2-beds with me being the only occupant of the room, a "First Class Cabin" situated on the 3rd Deck.Excellent , an entire cabin to myself which was some mental relief from the anguish of unbelievable portfolio losses on the "Stock Market Bourses" due to Hindenberg report and later collapse of Silicon Valley bank and Signature Bank in U.S.A. "Stock Investments" is my bread and butter entrepreneurship after quitting my salaried employment as a "Marine Engineer" on various types of ships. Dinner was from 2000-2100 hrs and similar to lunch but different method of cooking with chicken being the main dish along with vegetables , fruit salad and rosgolla.
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Tourists alighting 'M.V.Kavaratti" onto the motor launch "Kingfisher" for the ride to Minicoy wharf. |
Saturday (11/3/2023) Minicoy Island :-Woke up to a stomach upset and tea was between 0600- 0630 hrs.Very calm sea akin to a lake approaching Minicoy island.After years spotted flying fish in the sea.Breakfast was between 0700 – 0730 consisting of Eggs/ bread/ butter/ jam /cornflakes/ Sada Dosa Sambar.
At 0900 hrs first sighted land from our ship approaching Minicoy which resembled a long narrow strip of land .Minicoy locally known as Malliku is 398 Km(215 Nautical miles) from Kochi and only 140 Km (76 Nautical miles) from Maldives and is the second largest as well as the Southernmost island among the islands of the Lakshadweep archipelago.Akin to Maldives it is "Tuna Fishing"and "Tuna Canning" that is one of the main occupation of the islander's. The Atoll is 10 Km in length having a maximum breadth of 6 Km and consists of 2 small islands.Saw a small island with just 2 landmark coconut trees at one corner of this mass of land otherwise entirely dotted with coconut tree's."Minicoy Lighthouse" is a prominent landmark seen from the ship.On the southern end of the larger island is the uninhabited former leper colony called Viringili..B.S.N.L phone signals was functioning in Minicoy as i observed a few of the ship's staff and local passengers talking on phones.
At approximately 1000 hrs after the ship had anchored we cruise passengers assembled on the " First Deck Disembarkation door". There were 2 sets of Embarkation/Disembarkation door's on both Port and Starboard sides of the ship's hull. Facing the Bow (forward side) of a ship the left side of the ship is called "PORT" and right side "Starboard". "Stbd(Starboard)" side of the disembarkation door was used by common local passengers while the "Port" side was used by us cruise tourist passengers.Akin to taxi's on land there were a few launches floating on either side of the disembarkation doors of the ship to cart local passengers and tourists ashore to the jetty .Wearing life jackets all passengers assembled in a queue on Port side to board the launch "Kingfisher" and it was a half hour ride by motor launch from M.V.Kavaratti to the main Jetty of Minicoy Island.From the Jetty we were driven in open Mini van's to " Minicoy Lighthouse ". Minicoy Lighthouse was constructed in 1885 by the British and is 49.5 meters( 162 ft) in height having a torch light range of 40 nautical miles.The costruction of the lighthouse is in brick masonry and has a viewing gallery. It was a strenuous staircase climb to the top of Minicoy lighthouse viewing gallery.
While walking to the top at certain levels there were exhibits explaining the lighthouse.Finally absolutely exhausted reached the top open air viewing platform
.The view from the top was breathtaking with coconut trees covering the entire Island and the sea glistening in the sparkling sunshine.From Minicoy Lighthouse we were driven to the " " SPORTS " beach resort of Thundi Beach which in 2022 was awarded the elite International eco-tag of a "Blue Flag" beach.On reaching the resort at approximately 1130 hrs we tourists were welcomed with a cold drink..Excellent large beach of sparkling white sand and blue waters and as usual rushed to the "Water Sports" section and inquired about 'Snorkeling".Was told that 2 other tourists were interested and hence total strangers became acquaintances due to the water sport of snorkeling.4 of us tourists ,3 foreigners and self did private snorkeling. We were taken on a small boat about 1.5 Km away from the main beach onto a small specially built floating “ Snorkeling Platform”. British couple Mr Mathew. Angus and his Indian origin wife Divya.Chari along with another young French tourist Christoffe and self snorkeled over the coral sea bed in the vicinity of this platform . I was amazed at the beauty of the corals ,spotless white sand and a variety of ornamental fish swimming in this coral paradise. It was akin to being in a aquarium like the Dubai Mall surrounded by exotic fish species.Spotted numerous large “ Parrot fish” and even Mr Mathew. Angus and Divya Chari who have travelled to exotic aquatic and nature destinations across the Globe agreed this was a excellent sighting of fish on Minicoy Island.
They recommended Andaman Islands as one of the other best locales for fish safari in India.On our return back to the beach spotted a lone turtle which completed the excellent Snorkeling safari sightseeing on Minicoy Island.No wonder "Minicoy" along with "Kadmat" island in the Lakshadweep archipelago has been awarded the "Blue Flag" Did some Kayaking just for a photo-shoot and a majority of the tourists were busy enjoying the complimentary Kayaking which was included in the "Water Sports" schedule of the tour.
Lunch was at 1330 hrs and a good mix of veg and non –veg food prepared by the local village catering staff.Non- veg section had tuna curry and chicken on the menu. After lunch at approximately 1430 hrs we tourists were entertained by young local Minicoy women performing the local "Bandiya Dance".It was a blazing hot afternoon and was amazed to see these young women perform various dance sequences on the open beach front without any shade.A part of the dance sequence also resembled the Gujarati folk dance called "Dandiya" proving the cultural harmony and diversity that is Sub-Continent India.After viewing the "Bandiya Dance" at approximately 1545 hrs we tourists were next driven to the largest village in Minicoy called Palleyserey Village.
From North to South there are a total of 11 villages on Minicoy Island.A beautiful long original "Jahadhoni(Minicoy Snake Boat)" with oars was beautifully showcased at the entrance of the village commune.This boat had the village name "PALLEYSEREY" written across its side .On Minicoy Island most of the men folk are employed on ships and its the womenfolk who manage the house , a matriarchal form of society.We were offered tea along with the local snack of peas vegetable samosa and steamed rice /coconut pancake wrapped in a leaf called "Fookuthu" and which we Mangalorean's called "Patholi".Different regions of India and different cultures but similarity in cuisine .
Incredible India. After tea a lady of this village commune spoke to us in Hindi and Malayalam regarding the village life and social living structure of Minicoy.As Minicoy is close to Maldives their culture is similar to Maldive culture. Divehi which is a mix of Sinhalese and Urdu popularly known as Mahl is the local language of Minicoy Islanders. Malayalam and Hindi are also spoken as mandatory languages.
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Minicoy Lighthouse 49.5 meters(162ft) Height. |
At approximately 1000 hrs after the ship had anchored we cruise passengers assembled on the " First Deck Disembarkation door". There were 2 sets of Embarkation/Disembarkation door's on both Port and Starboard sides of the ship's hull. Facing the Bow (forward side) of a ship the left side of the ship is called "PORT" and right side "Starboard". "Stbd(Starboard)" side of the disembarkation door was used by common local passengers while the "Port" side was used by us cruise tourist passengers.Akin to taxi's on land there were a few launches floating on either side of the disembarkation doors of the ship to cart local passengers and tourists ashore to the jetty .Wearing life jackets all passengers assembled in a queue on Port side to board the launch "Kingfisher" and it was a half hour ride by motor launch from M.V.Kavaratti to the main Jetty of Minicoy Island.From the Jetty we were driven in open Mini van's to " Minicoy Lighthouse ". Minicoy Lighthouse was constructed in 1885 by the British and is 49.5 meters( 162 ft) in height having a torch light range of 40 nautical miles.The costruction of the lighthouse is in brick masonry and has a viewing gallery. It was a strenuous staircase climb to the top of Minicoy lighthouse viewing gallery.
While walking to the top at certain levels there were exhibits explaining the lighthouse.Finally absolutely exhausted reached the top open air viewing platform
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View from " Minicoy Lighthouse " |
.The view from the top was breathtaking with coconut trees covering the entire Island and the sea glistening in the sparkling sunshine.From Minicoy Lighthouse we were driven to the " " SPORTS " beach resort of Thundi Beach which in 2022 was awarded the elite International eco-tag of a "Blue Flag" beach.On reaching the resort at approximately 1130 hrs we tourists were welcomed with a cold drink..Excellent large beach of sparkling white sand and blue waters and as usual rushed to the "Water Sports" section and inquired about 'Snorkeling".Was told that 2 other tourists were interested and hence total strangers became acquaintances due to the water sport of snorkeling.4 of us tourists ,3 foreigners and self did private snorkeling. We were taken on a small boat about 1.5 Km away from the main beach onto a small specially built floating “ Snorkeling Platform”. British couple Mr Mathew. Angus and his Indian origin wife Divya.Chari along with another young French tourist Christoffe and self snorkeled over the coral sea bed in the vicinity of this platform . I was amazed at the beauty of the corals ,spotless white sand and a variety of ornamental fish swimming in this coral paradise. It was akin to being in a aquarium like the Dubai Mall surrounded by exotic fish species.Spotted numerous large “ Parrot fish” and even Mr Mathew. Angus and Divya Chari who have travelled to exotic aquatic and nature destinations across the Globe agreed this was a excellent sighting of fish on Minicoy Island.
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One for the camera. Kayaking in Minicoy . A "BLUE FLAG" beach |
They recommended Andaman Islands as one of the other best locales for fish safari in India.On our return back to the beach spotted a lone turtle which completed the excellent Snorkeling safari sightseeing on Minicoy Island.No wonder "Minicoy" along with "Kadmat" island in the Lakshadweep archipelago has been awarded the "Blue Flag" Did some Kayaking just for a photo-shoot and a majority of the tourists were busy enjoying the complimentary Kayaking which was included in the "Water Sports" schedule of the tour.
Lunch was at 1330 hrs and a good mix of veg and non –veg food prepared by the local village catering staff.Non- veg section had tuna curry and chicken on the menu. After lunch at approximately 1430 hrs we tourists were entertained by young local Minicoy women performing the local "Bandiya Dance".It was a blazing hot afternoon and was amazed to see these young women perform various dance sequences on the open beach front without any shade.A part of the dance sequence also resembled the Gujarati folk dance called "Dandiya" proving the cultural harmony and diversity that is Sub-Continent India.After viewing the "Bandiya Dance" at approximately 1545 hrs we tourists were next driven to the largest village in Minicoy called Palleyserey Village.
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" Bandiya Dance " performed by Minicoy Women. |
From North to South there are a total of 11 villages on Minicoy Island.A beautiful long original "Jahadhoni(Minicoy Snake Boat)" with oars was beautifully showcased at the entrance of the village commune.This boat had the village name "PALLEYSEREY" written across its side .On Minicoy Island most of the men folk are employed on ships and its the womenfolk who manage the house , a matriarchal form of society.We were offered tea along with the local snack of peas vegetable samosa and steamed rice /coconut pancake wrapped in a leaf called "Fookuthu" and which we Mangalorean's called "Patholi".Different regions of India and different cultures but similarity in cuisine .
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A glimpse of Palleyserey village commune on Minicoy Island.The largest among the eleven villages in Minicoy. |
Incredible India. After tea a lady of this village commune spoke to us in Hindi and Malayalam regarding the village life and social living structure of Minicoy.As Minicoy is close to Maldives their culture is similar to Maldive culture. Divehi which is a mix of Sinhalese and Urdu popularly known as Mahl is the local language of Minicoy Islanders. Malayalam and Hindi are also spoken as mandatory languages.
Finally after the village tour we returned back to ship at 1715 hrs.Excellently organized shore sightseeing and adventure water sports.Set sail for Agatti and dinner was at 2000 hrs as usual.My stomache upset had stabilized after the amazing view of exotic fish species during snorkeling and dinner was frugal sweet/ sour chicken/ 2 chappatis/ sweet dish.Food on M.V.Kavaratti is
no limit self service but as far as culinary taste is concerned my home food is port’s ahead. Ahoy !.
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Glimpse of coral on sea bed from "Glass Bottom Boat" |
Sunday (12/3/2023)Agatti Island :- For the first time after departure from Mumbai had my normal 4 + hrs sleep.Sea was calm as a lake and my single cabin had excellent A/C cooling as did the entire ship taking into consideration the number of tourist passengers travelling.As a former ship Marine engineer i did have some idea of the manpower and skill involved in maintaining the central A/c System of this ship let alone the propulsion which is a different engineering maintenance chapter by itself. Ahoy !Most of the tourists were families from different parts of India travelling together like Mr Bibhuti. Biswas family from Bengal who was travelling with his wife and college going son and daughter and through whose intervention I got this plush single accommodation "First Class" cabin. Mr Biswas wanted all his family members to be in the same cabin” No365”
.I was the odd tourist in the 4 bed second class cabin while his daughter was in another cabin.Hence my upgradation from “ Second Class- 4 bed ” to “ First class – Private cabin ” on the same deck . Double promotion ! Life is bizarre and unplanned at times.
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"LIFE BUOY" on Agatti Beach! Authentic "Life Buoy" normally seen floating on ocean passages as "Shipping Lane Guides" |
The only difference between “ First Class” and “ Second Class” cabins is " bed’s / cabin " which in “ First Class” is 2 tourists to one cabin. Also mostly all “ First Class” cabins are on a higher deck which is the 4th Deck of the ship except a few like mine which was on 3rd deck of the ship. The Bridge (Navigation control ) is on the topmost 6th deck of the ship.There is a "Helipad" on the 6th deck extreme aft of the ship. The distance between Minicoy and Agatti is 300 Km( 161 Nautical miles) and our ship anchored off Agatti coast at approximately 0630 hrs in absolute calm waters. The topographical shape of Agatti island as seen from sea is similar to Minicoy and at 7.6 Km in length, smaller than Minicoy. Agatti island total area is 3.141 SQ Km while the uninhabited Kalpatti Island has a area of 0.085 Sq Km Agatti Island is 459 Km off the West coast of Kochi and is the only island that has a small airport and hence the gateway for high spending tourists to the Lakshadweep Archipalego .In fact there was a plan to join Agatti Airport Runway with Kalpatti island to create a longer runway for jet aircrafts but the same abandoned as it would result in destruction of a turtle colony.For once Conservation efforts triumphed over tourism profit economics..Kavaratti Island , the Capital of Lakshadweep is only 54 Km from Agatti Island.On anchoring a small motorboat “ Uwaisal Qarni” came alongside embarkation Deck( 1st Deck) and a few of ships passengers were the first to head onto terra firma Agatti Island.There was also a announcement on the Intercom speaker system regarding some medical casualty to be taken ashore. The ship has a doctor on attendance as do all passenger ship's and separate male and female hospital ward room's on the Port side of the ship.
At 0745 hrs boarded the launch and on reaching shore which was a short 10 minutes ride was checked for attendance at the wharf jetty by a Samudram Tourist official.Deposited our life vests at the wharf Jetty station and was transported by “ Tata Venture” van’s to the Beach tourist resort. Enrolled for glass bottom boat ride which was complimentary offerered in the "Samudram Tour Package".. On Agatti Island “ Airtel” Internet service was available but not “ Jio Network”, surprising that “ Reliance”
conglomerate had yet to venture into Lakshadweep Islands .B.S.N.L phone network was available on all the tourists Islands while Agatti airport had daily flights from Bangalore ,Calicut and Kochi..It was absolutely low tide at the beach and on the beach they have floating pontoons used as gangway for tourists to board and alight the launches.
At Agatti Beach resort was first in queue for the glass bottom boat ride a excellent boat ride through crystal clear waters with the Coral sea bed forming a dark shadow when seen from a distance.First sea wildlife identified was a sea cucumber and came across numerous large sea turtles , for the first time in my life seeing such a large number in one location and not a aquarium..
Absolute basic “ Scuba Diving “ was available at Agatti Island and a few tourists who had booked on the day of joining the cruise joined the small group heading to the Suba diving site.Cost of Scuba diving for 15-20 minutes was Rs 3000 .If you want to get a first time experience of “ Scuba Diving” then this expensive dive excursion is mandatory as it is once in a lifetime chance of experiencing underwater breathing and a view of the aquatic life.If a upper budget tourist intending making underwater diving a hobby post-retirement age or change of profession then my advice is to do a complete Scuba dive "PADI" or "SSI" certified course and later actually experience and appreciate authentic amateur or even professional Scuba diving.I had done my Scuba diving "SSI" course in 2014 at Tulamben in Bali but failed a important underwater "Safety Test" where if not for my French Instructor would have drowned and hence was not certified as a full fledged diver and later didn't have the time to do a refresher course for official certification.Today in 2023 i am a daredevil "SNORKELER" and time permitting could snorkel for hours. Expensive ,but, if you have a undiscovered aptitude for the subject then could also make a career in “ Scuba Diving”.Besides, there is no upper age retirement with the minimum age limit being 8 years nor a "6+ Pack" physique or athletic prowess requirement to be a professional scuba diver.
Ageing Golfer's would understand Scuba diving better. Later booked a seat for the snorkeling session and similar to Minicoy Island was taken on a launch onto a floating pontoon for snorkeling. There were 5 of us in total , British couple Mathew.Angus and Divya.Chari along with another 2 tourists and self. The experience at Minicoy was much better in variety of fish, most notably large parrot fish and came across a shoal of yellow coloured fish swimming above the coral bed.Was distressed to spot a plastic package lying in the midst of the beautiful bed of coral.Returning back to the beach tea/Samosa was served at 1100 hrs.Excellent white sand beach .
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Can you spot the TURTLE ? Silhouette of turtle as it swims past our "Glass Bottom Boat". |
Absolute basic “ Scuba Diving “ was available at Agatti Island and a few tourists who had booked on the day of joining the cruise joined the small group heading to the Suba diving site.Cost of Scuba diving for 15-20 minutes was Rs 3000 .If you want to get a first time experience of “ Scuba Diving” then this expensive dive excursion is mandatory as it is once in a lifetime chance of experiencing underwater breathing and a view of the aquatic life.If a upper budget tourist intending making underwater diving a hobby post-retirement age or change of profession then my advice is to do a complete Scuba dive "PADI" or "SSI" certified course and later actually experience and appreciate authentic amateur or even professional Scuba diving.I had done my Scuba diving "SSI" course in 2014 at Tulamben in Bali but failed a important underwater "Safety Test" where if not for my French Instructor would have drowned and hence was not certified as a full fledged diver and later didn't have the time to do a refresher course for official certification.Today in 2023 i am a daredevil "SNORKELER" and time permitting could snorkel for hours. Expensive ,but, if you have a undiscovered aptitude for the subject then could also make a career in “ Scuba Diving”.Besides, there is no upper age retirement with the minimum age limit being 8 years nor a "6+ Pack" physique or athletic prowess requirement to be a professional scuba diver.
Ageing Golfer's would understand Scuba diving better. Later booked a seat for the snorkeling session and similar to Minicoy Island was taken on a launch onto a floating pontoon for snorkeling. There were 5 of us in total , British couple Mathew.Angus and Divya.Chari along with another 2 tourists and self. The experience at Minicoy was much better in variety of fish, most notably large parrot fish and came across a shoal of yellow coloured fish swimming above the coral bed.Was distressed to spot a plastic package lying in the midst of the beautiful bed of coral.Returning back to the beach tea/Samosa was served at 1100 hrs.Excellent white sand beach .
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Agatti villagers performing the "Parichkali Dance" Songs were sung in Malayalam. |
Later did some own snorkeling at the beach and was surprised to know that the depth of the beach bed although gradual is quite high in close proximity to the sparkling white dry land sand .Advice non – swimmers and children to be careful at Agatti beach as the beach depth is quite deceptive although calm and serene with no waves akin to a swimming pool. Even with the tide rising there were no waves lashing against the Beach.Remember the quote, "Still waters run deep".Hence it’s the perfect beach for swimming both in low and high tide akin to a swimming pool but make sure you are confident of your swimming prowess or wear a life float belt as the current can cause a person to drift away from land.
Spotted a few empty plastic bags on the white sand sea bed but no fish except a few small ornamental fish near the boarding jetty pontoon
.Amazingly salvaged some great hidden sea treasure near the pontoon finding a Rs 20 note on the sea bed.The same will be treasured memorabilia in my “ Travels collection". You can’t say you have visited the Lakshadweep Islands if you have not drunk a fresh tender coconut juice. At the beach resort after the snorkle swim and salvaging a Rs 20 note from the sea bed had a tender coconut juice drink costing Rs 40 .Small size coconuts with thick kernel.Lunch was at 1300 hrs on a different section of the beach with “ Tuna curry/ Fry tuna ” being the main non- veg menu.
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Buffet lunch at Agatti beach resort |
.Amazingly salvaged some great hidden sea treasure near the pontoon finding a Rs 20 note on the sea bed.The same will be treasured memorabilia in my “ Travels collection". You can’t say you have visited the Lakshadweep Islands if you have not drunk a fresh tender coconut juice. At the beach resort after the snorkle swim and salvaging a Rs 20 note from the sea bed had a tender coconut juice drink costing Rs 40 .Small size coconuts with thick kernel.Lunch was at 1300 hrs on a different section of the beach with “ Tuna curry/ Fry tuna ” being the main non- veg menu.
After lunch local entertainment was the Malayalam “ Ulekmutt Dance” performed by men.A
complicated dance to the tune of chiming of bells and wooden poles banged against each other by 2
men seated on the sand on either side and a male dancer doing the Hop- Step dance inserting his legs in-between the poles .A slight misjudgment could result in injury . Later a few tourists also danced the tune on assistance from the men folk dancers. Later these men performed a sword dance called "Parichkali Dance".Got hooked onto the tender coconut juice and had a total of 3 coconuts.Picked up a conversation with young French tourist Christophe from Marseilles in France on a tour of India.
He had previously backpacked for almost a year, a real privilege and not uncommon among young First World citizens.Most “ First World Country Citizens” get “ Visa on arrival” to a maximum number of Country’s which makes travel less cumbersome as more than a travel bank balance it is “ Visa Procedures” that makes travel very restrictive and cumbersome for Indian passport holders and Citizens from Developing Country’s.Finally after tea we bid goodbye to “ Agatti Beach resort” and on our way back to the Boat jetty ferry stopped at “ Golden Jubilee Museum”.Sculptures of traditional Minicoy sail boats called "Jagdhoni" was on display as were , pots ,wooden chests and busts of Lord Buddha.A very small museum and the only museum in entire Lakshadweep Archipelago
.Our next stop was at the "ICAR -National Bureau of Fish Genetic Resources"”which had fish tanks akin to a fish farm and photography prohibited. Most of the fish were ornamental fish. .
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"Golden Jubilee Museum" building in Agatti.This is the only museum on the entire Lakshadweep Archipelago. |
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Jagdhoni on display at "Golden Jubilee Museum" in Agattii. |
He had previously backpacked for almost a year, a real privilege and not uncommon among young First World citizens.Most “ First World Country Citizens” get “ Visa on arrival” to a maximum number of Country’s which makes travel less cumbersome as more than a travel bank balance it is “ Visa Procedures” that makes travel very restrictive and cumbersome for Indian passport holders and Citizens from Developing Country’s.Finally after tea we bid goodbye to “ Agatti Beach resort” and on our way back to the Boat jetty ferry stopped at “ Golden Jubilee Museum”.Sculptures of traditional Minicoy sail boats called "Jagdhoni" was on display as were , pots ,wooden chests and busts of Lord Buddha.A very small museum and the only museum in entire Lakshadweep Archipelago
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"ICAR -National Bureau of Fish Genetic Resources" in Agatti. Photography was not allowed. |
.Our next stop was at the "ICAR -National Bureau of Fish Genetic Resources"”which had fish tanks akin to a fish farm and photography prohibited. Most of the fish were ornamental fish. .
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Entrance to "Agatti Airport" Only airport on Lakshadweep Islands |
Cycling is a common mode of transport and spotted a group of young local girls cycling on the narrow village road.Saw a rare sight of a young probably school going girl riding her cycle double seat giving her much younger brother a cycle- lift..Lakshadweep society is matriarchal and women play a major role in the family affairs. Finally on our way from "Fish Research museum" to "Anthan Beach" we passed alongside landmark "Agatti Airport".At 1615 hrs on arrival at “ Anthan Beach” we tourists had a rest /photography break on the beach resort which had a canteen.At 1700 hrs finally assembled at the boat jetty and at 1720 hrs back at home sweet home on the high seas “ M.V.Kavaratti “.My single room/ two bed cabin was akin to a 5- star room,neat and with all cabin amenities in spick and span condition.Ship cabin’s are well maintained most importantly the air-conditioning and toilet/ Bathe amenities. After bathe dozed a bit and dinner was at 2030 hrs on a diet of 2 chapatti’s/ Chicken dish/fruit salad/ Gulab Jamun
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Anthan Beach resort on Agatti Island |
.After dinner strolled on main deck which is the 3rd Deck and was flooded with 23 years of sailing nostalgia.Although Shipping rules/ regulations , machinery and ship staff wages has changed by leaps and bounds since I last sailed on a “ Bombay High” off- shore sailing vessel in 2006 the basic fundamentals and engine room machinery functioning would still be the same." A SHIP IS A SHIP AND HAS TO MOVE MECHANICALLY ON WATER". Engineer officers and engine crew keep a ship moving while the Navigation officers and navigation crew maintain the ship's direction .
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A view of spotless white and clean Anthan Beach |
.Once upon a time from 1983 upto 2006 I was one of the engineering officers keeping a sailing vessel mechanically functional and here I was now a “ Cruise Tourist” experiencing the luxury of sea travel.Honestly as a “ Cruise Tourist” irrespective of the ship being a ultra luxury “ Wonder of the Seas” or a average middle class Cruise ship like “ M.V.Kavaratti “ it’s a total different feeling living and visiting ports / Islands as a tourist than as a shipboard employee.I have the luxury to comment as i have seen both sides of the coin on sailing on a ship. Ahoy !
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Entrance to Koomel Beach Resort on Kalpeni Island. |
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You cannot leave Lakshadweep Islands without sipping a Tender coconut. At Koomel Beach resort in Kalpeni. |
Monday(13/3/2023) Kalpeni Island : - The distance between Agatti and Kalpeni is 181 Km ( 98 Nautical miles) and our ship reached Kalpeni Anchorage sometime early morning.From Anchorage a similar view as of Minicoy and Agatti and the lighthouse of Kalpeni which has a height of 37 meters( 121 ft) was a prominent landmark flashing in the distance. Long narrow strip of island whose most prominent feature is the lighthouse.Vegetation is dense coconut plantation.Kalpeni is considered the most socially progressive islands of Lakshadweep as it was on this island that girl's first went to school when women's education was considered taboo. As usual after breakfast went to the embarkation platform on Deck No 1 and boarded the launch to Kalpeni boat jetty.A very short boat ride of 10 minutes after which we boarded our motorized transport to Koomel Beach resort where all the water sports are conducted including scuba diving..
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Visit to Hosiery Factory on Kalpeni Island. Souvenir shirts and handicrafts |
We were welcomed with a coconut water drink and told of a change in programme.As it was absolutely low tide water sports schedule was shifted to post lunch .At Low tide we could see the huge storm bank of coral boulders that barricades Pitti and Tilakkam islands like a fortress wall.It is presumed that in 1847 a huge storm threw up this coral boulders ashore that are now distinctly visible at Low tide akin to a boundary wall. Hence morning would be visiting hosiery factory. and later after lunch would be visiting Pitti Island for snorkeling. There is another island next to it called Tilakkam Island – No 2 and behind it Tilakkam Island No 3.Tilakkam Island – No 1 has been reclaimed by the sea and with Global warming and increase in Sea levels the sinking of Island lands is becoming a reality.
Was surprised to realize that I was not the oldest tourist in the package Samudram Tour as many couples were definitely past 60 or 70’s and along with prime language Malayalam also heard tourists speaking, Tamil, Kannada ,Bengali, Gujarati and Hindi , cosmopolitan India on Lakshadweep Samudram Tour.
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View of "Coral Storm Boundary" wall approaching Pitti Island in Kalpeni for snorkeling. |
Hilariously a North Indian v/s South Indian argument developed between a young Delhite and a elderly Tamilian Senior citizen.It was akin to watching a free entertainment play and as usual normalcy returned after a brief argument.Incredible India with Unity in Diversity. Later was driven to the hosiery shop and purchased 2 Souvenir T-Shirts.Later returned back to Koomel beach resort and at 0945 hrs had a solo snorkel near the pontoon jetty.Spotted and petted a few sea cucumbers and spotted a few exotic ornamental fish near the anchor of the mooring jetty on a coral reef.Excellent water clarity. Again water sports plans changed and at at 1045 hrs we were taken on a boat to Pitti Island which was previously planned for after lunch .As the tide was gradually changing from low to high had some difficulty in maneuvering our boat through the barricade storm bounday wall of Coral boulders .
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Returning back to Koomel beach resort from Pitti Island after snorkeling at Full Tide . The "Coral Storm Boundary" wall is totally submerged and invisible. |
Finally did manage to squeeze our launch into the shallow lagoon with crystal clear water visibility .Worse was the barefoot walk along the shoreline of Pittii Island riddled with coral and hence wearing of sandals is essential when visiting Pitti Island of Kalpeni.Finally after a short careful walk reached the “ SNORKLE POINT” on Pittii island where all tourists were given individual snorkels free of charge which was included in the package.Since I was carrying my own snorkle kit immediately headed into the lagoon.Brought back memories of Maldives in sighting of various ornamental fish in literally chest deep water
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Buffet Lunch at Koomel Beach resort. |
.Snorkled onto the barrier reef of coral wall that was gradually getting submerged as the tide increased.Discovered a Wonderworld of exotic ornamental fish as also a few mid size fish.Water was just chest deep and I spent an hour snorkeling and exploring the entire circumference of the lagoon coral boulder boundary wall .A hilarious Clown fish found me a different fish species and circled me, a identical encounter copy with a clown fish in Maldives.Sighted a large beautiful exotically coloured fish, the lone ranger of its species in the vicinity.Later looking into the crevices of the lagoon coral boulders spotted a huge fish that literally stared at me from a few feet hidden in a crevice , least afraid of fleeing from my approach.It probably presumed i couldn't see it but later i myself retreated a little away as this fish resembled a piranha or tiger fish type of species and hence didn’t want to take a chance of being bitten by it in self defense or if it presumed I was a tasty piece of food.Finally after satisfying my snorkeling safari went back to the Boat and in peak high tide headed the short distance back to Koomel beach resort with the formidable coral boulder wall totally submerged in water
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Kolkali-Parichakali folk dance by villagers of Kalpeni at Koomel beach resort. |
.Lunch at 1300 hrs was chicken curry/ Tuna fish fry/ rice and a sweet dish. After lunch as usual there was local folk dance entertainment.A group of men did "Kolkali-Parichakali" dance with sword's and shields similar to the men folk of Agatti Island.Later they did a dance identical to Gujarati style Dandiya with sticks akin to the dance enacted by the women of Minicoy.This was my last day on Lakshadweep Island and having now seen and stepped on every geographical region of India only one quote seems abrupt to describe the Indian Subcontinent, “ Multicultural, Multilingual and Multireligious with unity in diversity.”
Later in the afternoon we were driven in vans on a sightseeing trip across the beautiful coconut plantation villages of Kalpeni passing alongside a school, Juma Masjid Mosque, Kalpeni Helipad and finally to the northern most end of Kalpeni called North End Tip Beach or simply as "Tip Beach"..This is the most famous beach of Kalpeni and is used for Scuba diving and snorkeling. "North End Tip Beach"or "Tip Beach" is a absolutely scenic beach with a unique “ One - Coconut Tree Island” as a landmark at the extreme end of Kalpeni Island akin to the "Two - Tree Coconut Island" at entrance to Minicoy island.Came across numerous Hermit crabs using dead sea shells as a Armour plate to move around.Finally returned back to Koomal beach and tea time was “ Patholi/ Tea”, a typical Mangalorean specialty in distant Lakshadweep Islands.
Note :- In the Video below a glimpse of a "HERMIT CRAB" hiding in a sea shell on "North End Tip Beach".Numerous "Hermit Crabs" on the sparkling white sand of "Tip Beach".
.Travel educates.At 1745 hrs left our resort and headed to the island boat jetty.
On arriving at the boat jetty was surprised to see M.V.Kavaratti heading towards anchorage after making a quick trip to nearby Andrott Island and back to Kalpeni. Andrott Island is only 71 Km( 39 Nautical Miles) away from Kalpeni.
A hectic time schedule to be maintained by the ship’s staff and the average marine engineer’s engine room maintenance job on board this vessel ,especially junior engineer’s was definitely hectic and definitely not a cruise vacation. Boarded the launch and it was a short 10 minutes launch ride to M.V.Kavaratti and back to my plush cabin with A/C a real solace from the humid heat once out of the beach water.Ship heaved anchor and began sailing for Kochi at approximately 1915 hrs.End of a memorable snorkel as well as sightseeing travel across Minicoy, Agatti and Kalpeni.Today’s last day dinner of “ Chicken Biryani” was probably the best main meal served on the ship during the entire 5 day tour. Excellent .According to my opinion the best meal on board M.V.Kavaratti was the daily morning breakfast.Had a decent 4 hrs sleep akin to being at home , only difference I was on a ship on
.Travel educates.At 1745 hrs left our resort and headed to the island boat jetty.
On arriving at the boat jetty was surprised to see M.V.Kavaratti heading towards anchorage after making a quick trip to nearby Andrott Island and back to Kalpeni. Andrott Island is only 71 Km( 39 Nautical Miles) away from Kalpeni.
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Relaxing on "North End Tip " Beach on Kalpeni Island akin to owning this tiny strip of beach land. Understood the meaning of owning your own island. |
A hectic time schedule to be maintained by the ship’s staff and the average marine engineer’s engine room maintenance job on board this vessel ,especially junior engineer’s was definitely hectic and definitely not a cruise vacation. Boarded the launch and it was a short 10 minutes launch ride to M.V.Kavaratti and back to my plush cabin with A/C a real solace from the humid heat once out of the beach water.Ship heaved anchor and began sailing for Kochi at approximately 1915 hrs.End of a memorable snorkel as well as sightseeing travel across Minicoy, Agatti and Kalpeni.Today’s last day dinner of “ Chicken Biryani” was probably the best main meal served on the ship during the entire 5 day tour. Excellent .According to my opinion the best meal on board M.V.Kavaratti was the daily morning breakfast.Had a decent 4 hrs sleep akin to being at home , only difference I was on a ship on
the high seas.Excellent cabin accommodation especially when you are a tourist and not a employee .
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All good cruises come to a end and here we tourists are in queue to board the launch from Kalpeni wharf to our floating home "M.V.Kavaratti".Here tourists are boarding the launch. |
Throughout my 23 years service on sailing vessels of different types, sizes and trade routes always had a individual cabin to myself but life as a engineer on any ship is not a sea cruise akin to "M.V.Kavaratti".Ahoy !
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A view of the "Embarkation/Disembarkation" Doors Situated just above the "Plimsoll" line markings of the ship. |
Tuesday(14/3/2023) Arrival Kochi and By- Bye “ M.V.Kavaratti " :- Kochi is 287 Km(155nautical miles) from Kalpeni . Morning tea was at 0600 hrs as usual and was amazed at the calmness of the sea and stability of ship “ M.V.Kavaratti “. Absolutely no slight rolling let alone pitching and much comfortable than air travel let alone bus or train travel.No wonder the Ultra wealthy retired folks of First World Country’s and now even India prefer the luxury of “CRUISE TRAVEL”.If you have a little above average Bank balance and retired or young and self employed in the internet era with ample time at your personal disposal for travel then my advice is get addicted to “ CRUISE TRAVEL”.
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Helipad of "M.V.Kavaratti" situated on the 6th deck behind the funnel of the ship. |
On board our group tour among the few individuals I came across and struck a conversation was a B.A.R.C scientist and a former pharmaceutical Conglomerate head in his 80's age range travelling along with his wife.Age is just a number for a few. Many were travelling with their kids and 180+ tourists is definitely a large number in a package tour . Hope middle class “ CRUISE TOURISM” booms in other tourist ports as well.Suddenly after a gap of 4 days received my " Reliance jio" Internet signal and at last was breathing phone and internet connectivity . Never in my life since the introduction of cell phones and later Internet had I been cut out of phone/ Internet connectivity for such a long period of time.Checked my messages as also social websites.Honestly if not for the " INTERNET" I would not have become a self employed entrepreneur nor travelled Solo across the globe let alone India.Ahoy ! Cruise travel is convenient,economical and something different in comparison to other formats of mass package tourism. Last breakfast on board M.V.Kavaratti was “ Spaghetti/ Scrambled eggs/ cornflakes". On the entire cruise relished the breakfast menu which was part continental part Indian.Ship docked at Ernakulam harbour on Willingdon island at 0800 hrs and at 0900 hrs bid goodbye to a excellent cruise on board “ M.V.Kavaratti “ and headed out of Ernakulam Port gate.
There were numerous Autorickshaw’s outside with mind-boggling hire charges of a minimum of Rs 300 from Ernakulam wharf to High Court Junction.
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Tuesday(14/3/2023) :- End of the "5 Day Lakshadweep Samudram cruise" and having disembarked the cruise ship the nomadic journey continues on land.What is life if not a continuous journey . |
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"M.V.Kavaratti" docked at Ernakulam Wharf on Willingdon Island. |
Barring speaking or understanding Malayalam language I could be mistaken for a local Kochiite and hence asking directions walked the short distance from Ernakulam Port to Willingdon Island Boat Jetty.Purchased a boat ticket costing only Rs 6 and luxuriously travelled the short distance by Ferry .Enroute to Ernakulam Jetty was at the “ Right Place at the Right Time” to see a Indian Navy frigate drill of a commando rescue of a ship by means of a inflatable speed boat.On arrival at Ernakulam Boat Jetty walked the short distance to the bus stop and boarded a empty bus and at a ticket of Rs 10 alighted at High Court Juction.After the now familiar walk to “ St Antonys Lodge “ on Basin Road was allotted “ Room No 6” with a excellent view of Kerala's largest banana market and the dirtiest navigable Basin Canal that if clean could have been on par with a few of the canal's of Venice in Italy .On Wednesday(15/3/2023) boarded the "1636 Nethravathi Express" to Mumbai with the "Nomad " finally at home in Mumbai the next day with the ambition of travel across India realized in my lifetime of travels.
Note :- Identical to Lakshadweep Archipelago in India is the Maldive Islands that is a paradise for "SOLO SNORKELING" and "SCUBA DIVING" . Check my travelogue if wanting to visit Maldives on a budget :- https://snorkellmaldives.blogspot.com/