Monday, March 6, 2023

Visiting Minicoy, Agatti and Kalpeni Islands of Lakshadweep by cruise ship "M.V. Kavaratti"



 
Finally with ticket in hand
and cruise ship " M.V.Kavaratti "
docked alongside  at
Mattancherry wharf will be realizing
my dream of setting foot
on all the geographical 
and climatic zones of 
unique Sub- Continent India.

Finally the time had come to visit the last frontier of the Indian sub-continent to complete my lifetime travel across all the geographical  and climatic regions of India.On Tuesday(7/2/2023) had booked my  on- line  "Gold  Ticket(Second Class)" on the "SPORTS(Society for Promotion of Nature Tourism and Sports)" website for the "Samudran Package Tour "  of Lakshadweep islands  costing a total of Rs 29,925. Lucky to get one of the last few tickets as this "Lakshadweep Samudram Cruise" was closed for almost entire 2022 .On Wednesday (1/12/2021) while on a cruise  the ship had a major fire in the engine room and although no casualties the ship had to undergo repairs and maintenance .Hence was out of passenger/ cruise service for almost a year and the services  resumed recently  in early January 2023.
                                                                                     Friday(10/3/2023) Start of "5 DAY LAKSHADWEEP SAMUDRAM  PACKAGE TOUR ON BOARD CRUISE/PASSENGER SHIP M.V.KAVARATTI :-Had arrived in Ernakulam from Mumbai on Wednesday (8/3/2023) by "1635 Nethravathi Express" . After a 2 night's stay at " St Antonys Lodge" on Friday( 10/3/2023) boarded the ferry to Willingdon Island and after  almost a 3 Km marathon walk traced the building of Lakshadweep Wharf and Passenger boarding centre situated near the "F.C.I (Food Corporation of India)" Godown on Willingdon Island.On entering the building and after getting my luggage scanned  had to visit the first floor office for verification and collection of  my passenger ticket. The procedure was similar to airport terminal boarding and liquor is strictly prohibited as luggage .

At 1500 hrs on Friday(10/3/2023) departure Kochi 
View of the gradually fading coastline
as our ship heads deeper into the Ocean.

At 1000 hrs after clearing all formalities checked in my bag at the "Luggage check in" counter  on the ground floor of the building akin to a airport  and boarded the bus inside the harbour jetty for transfer to the " M.V.Kavaratti"  cruise ship berthed  at Mattancherry wharf..After a short drive  on reaching the wharf walked up the gangway  and at 1030 hrs was in  " Cabin No 365 " situated on the 3rd deck meant for 2nd Class passengers.M.V.Kavaratti has a capacity to carry a total of 700 passengers and 200 tons of cargo.Tourists on the "Samudram Package Cruise" have seperate air-conditioned "Cabin Class" accomodation on the 3rd,4th and 5th Decks of the ship. There are only 3 "Second Class Cabins(Gold Class)" with 4 tourists to a cabin while all the rest 84 Cabins are "First Class(Diamond Class)" with 2  tourists to a cabin.In 2015 M.V.Kavaratti was used for evacuating 4000 Indians from Yemen who were stranded due to the conflict in that country.My trolley bag was delivered to my cabin which had excellent A/C and a relief from the soaring temp of Kochi. Since "Second Class(Gold Class)"  cabins have 4 passengers to a cabin the " Bibhuti Biswas" family from Bengal occupied the 3 other beds." SPORTS (Society for promotion of nature tourism and sports) Lakshadweep  Samudram Tour" was housefull.Lunch was between 1300-1400 hrs  on the 4th  deck mess room hall's situated at the aft end of the ship  with Starboard  side hall being for vegetarians and Port side hall for non- vegetarians.The ship's officers mess was a small secluded section situated  in-between the Vegetarian and non-vegetarian section  and once upon a time i would occupy one of these chairs during my employment on various different types of ship's.Change is permanant.Huge rush and queue for food which was buffet style self service.Very average food of rice/ Chapati/ Non- veg chicken/ Fish fry/ vegetable / Sambar and watermelon slices for fruits.After lunch was  back in our " 4 - beds/ room  No 365" with me being the odd tourist among a tourist family .
"M.V.Kavaratti" was built in 2008 at the Hindustan Shipyard in Vishakhapatnam especially for promoting tourism in the Lakhshadweep islands..The ship is 120 meters long with a total passenger carrying capacity of 700 passengers and 200 tons of cargo and is the largest passenger vessel built in India.. The ship has 6 decks with the bottom 1st and 2nd Deck's used for common class "Bunk Passengers", mostly local islander's.  The 3rd ,4th and 5th Decks are "Cabin Class" accomodations meant for Cruise tourists and islander's consisting of "First Class(Diamond class) and "Second Class(Gold Class) accommodation the 6th deck(Topmost) is the "Bridge(Navigation Department)" in the fore-end of the ship and a helipad on the aft end of the ship.The ship also has a tiny swimming pool on the 5th deck .In this photo clicked on the Starboard side(Right Side) of the ship the 2 "Embarkation/Disembarkation " passenger doors are visible.

Ahoy ! Minicoy island sighted
as "M.V.Kavarati"lowers anchor 
at anchorage point off Minicoy .

Ship heaved anchor and set sail at approximately 1500 hrs and as for me had  last sailed on a ocean cargo ship in 1998 and hence was sailing on a Ocean ship  after almost 25 years although in 2017 did sail for  approximately  2 hrs on the " Viking XRPS" ultra  luxury ferry   between Helsinki in Finland and Tallinn in Estonia on my European solo travel. " A sailor  might quit the sea profession  but the sea always beckons the sailor  " proves true for me having served 23 years on/ off  as a " Marine Engineer(1983-2006)" on various types of ships including tiny  tug's. After decades saw the sight of seagulls following the ship for garbage food.Sea was very calm with just ripples and " M.V.Kavaratti " was cruising at a very good speed of approximately 13 knots. She averages between 12-14 knots depending on sea conditions.Passed alongside numerous fishing vessel's.Finally the jinx of 2016  was broken and at last  was  on board M.V.Kavaratti heading to Minicoy Island of the  Lakshadweep Archipelago. The aft (Stern) and front(Bow) main  deck(3rd Deck) of the ship was barricaded to prevent passengers into this sensitive restricted area of the ship .So young romantic  copycat's trying to mimic " Titanic movie Style" photo shoots would have to settle for less prominent locales within the large  ship.Tea was between 1600 – 1700 hrs

.Excellent tea with biscuits and " Reliance Jio"  network was lost once we lost vision of the coastline and sailed into a endless horizon. No wonder the ultra wealthy  or reclusive  individuals seek solace and solitude  on super luxury yachts or cruise ship's .
Tourist Passengers wearing "Life Jackets"
assembled on "1st Deck"
to board launch for finally stepping onto
Minicoy Island of Lakshadweep Archipelago.

As a " CRUISE PASSENGER" there is a certain aura of mystique and soothing calmness  just staring into the empty Ocean akin to meditation , yoga or spiritualism.Brought back memories of my generation’s era of sea sailing when phone's let alone internet was a distant dream and we seafarer's irrespective of rank/status would eagerly await our next port of call to receive mail/magazines,etc . Since there was no internet began documenting  my travelogue on my phone "Word Document" akin to a laptop  instead of pen/paper writing as was the case during my sea sailing era.Bizarrely ,i didn't even carry a pen or paper along with me which were  once indispensable office and personal tools before arrival of laptop's and smartphone's .Change is permanent in lifestyle and technology. The Lakshadweep archipelago consists of a total of 36 Islands and the name Lakshadweep means one lakh islands in Malayalam and Sanskrit.Lakshadweep was formerly known as "Laccadive, Minicoy and Amindive" islands  and in 1973 the islands were collectively named as Lakshadweep islands.The islands of Lakshadweep forms the smallest Union territory of India  created in 1956 with a area of only 32 Sq Km ( 12 Sq Miles) and almost 93% of the population are Muslims belonging to the Sunni sect of Islam. The nickname for Lakshadweep islands is Coral Islands  as the entire Lakshadweep Archipalego consists of coral formation islands.Island Kavaratti after which the Cruise/Passenger ship M.V.Kavaratti is named is the Capital of the Union territory of Lakshadweep.Out of  the 36 islands  only 10 Islands are inhabited which are Kavaratti, Agatti, Amini, Kadmat, Kiltan, Chetlat, Bitra, Andrott, Kalpeni and Minicoy. Bitra is the smallest of all having only a population of 271 persons (Census 2011). The uninhabited island Bangaram is used solely as a high cost private tourist resort island  and is akin to living on a private island .Liquor or consumption of liquor is prohibited in entire Lakshadweeep islands except the uninhabited tourist island of Bangaram.We tourists of the "5 DAYS SAMUDRAM LAKHSHADWEEP TOUR"  would be visiting the 3 inhabited Island's of Minicoy, Agatti and Kalpeni.” M.V.Kavaratti” belongs to Lakshadweep Union territory  but is managed and crewed by S.C.I(Shipping Corporation of India)
View of Minicoy Island from ship anchorage.
Notice landmark tiny 
 "One Coconut Tree Island"

. There was a total of 181 Samudram  tourists on board with the rest being Island passengers mostly travelling on 1st and 2nd Deck's in  Bunk class accomodation.The ship had its limitations as there was no paid laundry service  on board or space to dry clothes on board this largest indigenously built  Indian  cruise cum passenger ship. Disembarkation/Embarkation for cruise tourists/local passengers  was on on 1st deck of the ship.Every cabin and common public access place had a loudspeaker for  announcements to ship's staff,cruise  tourists and common local Islander passengers .Hence the loudspeaker was in constant use at regular intervals and besides English and Hindi it was Malayalam that was the main language on the anouncement speakers.
After tea at 1630 hrs we tourists were given a debriefing of the tour schedule and types of water-sports on the 3 different islands on the 4th deck recreation hall situated at the  bow end of the ship.
Passenger seating sofa's
on "Main Deck (3rd Deck)"of ship.
This is actually a portable ship's 
tool box/store doubling as a sofa.

Our first island stop was to be  Minicoy.Kavaratti which was originally among the 3 islands to be visited was cancelled and instead we would be taken to Agatti. Last cruise visit would be to Kalpeni island before finally returning back to home port Kochi. Kayaking  was complimentary in Minicoy as also Glass bottom boat ride on Agatti Island and snorkeling on Kalpeni island. .Absolute amateur "Scuba Diving" costing .Rs 3000/ person was available  on Agatti for which booking's had to be done in advance before arrival to the island.Later had a excellent hot water bathe and the ship's cabin  was  excellently maintained in catering to Samudram cruise tourists.
Later Mr Bibhuti.Biswas ,a Bengali poet and fiction writer travelling with his entire family requested the “ Samudram Tour Manager” to accommodate me in some other cabin and to my good luck was
upgraded to another cabin on the same deck but at the extreme fore-end(bow) of the ship  .Entered Cabin “ No 308” having just 2-beds  with me being the only occupant of the room, a "First Class Cabin" situated on the 3rd Deck.Excellent , an entire cabin to myself which was some mental relief from the anguish of unbelievable  portfolio losses on the "Stock Market Bourses" due to  Hindenberg report  and later collapse of Silicon Valley bank and Signature Bank in U.S.A. "Stock Investments" is  my bread and butter entrepreneurship  after quitting my salaried employment as a "Marine Engineer" on various types of  ships. Dinner was from 2000-2100 hrs and similar to lunch   but different method of cooking with chicken being the main dish along with vegetables , fruit salad and rosgolla.

"Samudram Tourists" on Minicoy Thundi  Beach.Safety measures like wearing of life jackets at all times is mandatory except at one's own risk for swimmers. and snorkelers. Thundi Beach was awarded the "BLUE FLAG"  in 2022.The "Blue Flag" is a distinctive eco-label or certification program run by the nonprofit Foundation for Environmental Education (FEE). It is given to coastal communities all over the world as a symbol of environmental distinction in support of the Sustainable Development Goals of the United Nations (SDGs).

Tourists alighting 'M.V.Kavaratti"
onto the motor launch
"Kingfisher" for the ride
to Minicoy wharf.

Saturday (11/3/2023) Minicoy Island :-
Woke up to a stomach upset and  tea was between 0600- 0630 hrs.Very calm sea akin to a lake approaching Minicoy island.After years spotted flying fish in the sea.Breakfast was between 0700 – 0730 consisting of Eggs/ bread/ butter/ jam /cornflakes/ Sada Dosa Sambar.
At 0900 hrs first sighted land from  our ship  approaching Minicoy which resembled a long narrow strip of land .Minicoy locally known as Malliku is 398 Km(215 Nautical miles) from Kochi  and  only 140 Km (76 Nautical miles) from Maldives and is the second largest as well as the Southernmost island among the islands of the Lakshadweep archipelago.Akin to Maldives it is "Tuna Fishing"and "Tuna Canning"  that is one of the main occupation of the islander's. The Atoll is 10 Km in length having a maximum breadth of 6 Km and consists of 2 small islands.Saw a small island with just 2 landmark coconut trees at one corner of this mass of land otherwise entirely  dotted with coconut tree's."Minicoy Lighthouse" is a prominent landmark seen from the ship.On the southern end of the larger island is the uninhabited former leper colony called Viringili..B.S.N.L phone signals was  functioning in Minicoy as i observed a few of the ship's staff and local passengers  talking on phones.
Minicoy Lighthouse 
49.5 meters(162ft) Height.

At approximately 1000 hrs after the ship had anchored we cruise passengers assembled on the " First Deck Disembarkation door". There were 2 sets of Embarkation/Disembarkation door's  on both Port  and Starboard  sides of the ship's hull. Facing  the Bow (forward side) of a ship the left side of the ship is called "PORT" and right side "Starboard". "Stbd(Starboard)" side of the disembarkation door was used by common local passengers while the "Port" side  was used by us cruise tourist passengers.Akin to taxi's on land there were a few launches floating  on either side of the disembarkation doors of the ship to cart local passengers and tourists ashore to the jetty .Wearing life jackets all passengers assembled in a queue on Port side to board the launch "Kingfisher"  and it was a  half hour  ride by motor launch from M.V.Kavaratti to the main Jetty of Minicoy Island.From the Jetty we were driven in open Mini  van's to " Minicoy Lighthouse ". Minicoy Lighthouse was constructed in   1885 by the British and is 49.5 meters( 162 ft) in height having a torch light range of 40 nautical miles.The costruction of the lighthouse is in brick masonry and has a viewing gallery. It was a strenuous staircase climb to the top of Minicoy lighthouse viewing gallery.

While walking to the top at certain levels there were exhibits explaining the lighthouse.Finally absolutely exhausted reached the top open air viewing platform
View from " Minicoy Lighthouse "

.The view from the top was breathtaking with coconut trees covering the entire Island and the sea glistening in the sparkling sunshine.From Minicoy Lighthouse we were driven to the " " SPORTS " beach resort of Thundi Beach  which in 2022 was awarded the elite International eco-tag of a  "Blue Flag" beach.On reaching the resort  at approximately 1130 hrs we tourists were welcomed with a  cold drink..Excellent large beach of sparkling white sand and blue waters and as usual rushed to the "Water Sports" section and inquired about 'Snorkeling".Was told that 2 other tourists were interested  and hence total strangers became acquaintances due to the water sport of snorkeling.4 of  us tourists ,3 foreigners and self  did private snorkeling. We were taken on a small boat about 1.5 Km away from the main beach onto a small specially built floating  “ Snorkeling Platform”. British couple Mr Mathew. Angus and his Indian origin wife Divya.Chari along with another young French tourist Christoffe and self snorkeled over the coral sea bed in the vicinity of this platform . I was amazed at the beauty of the corals ,spotless white  sand and a variety of ornamental fish swimming in this coral paradise. It was akin to being in a aquarium like the Dubai Mall  surrounded by exotic fish species.Spotted numerous large “ Parrot fish” and even Mr Mathew. Angus and Divya Chari who have travelled to exotic aquatic and nature destinations across the Globe agreed this was a excellent sighting of fish on Minicoy Island.
One for the camera.
Kayaking in Minicoy
 .
A "BLUE FLAG" beach 

They recommended Andaman Islands as one of the other best locales for fish safari in India.On our return back to the beach spotted a lone turtle which completed the excellent Snorkeling safari  sightseeing on Minicoy Island.No wonder "Minicoy" along with "Kadmat" island in the Lakshadweep archipelago has been awarded the "Blue Flag" Did some Kayaking just for a photo-shoot  and a majority of the tourists were busy enjoying the complimentary Kayaking which was included in the "Water Sports" schedule of the tour.

Lunch was at 1330 hrs and a good mix of veg and non –veg food prepared by the local village catering staff.Non-  veg section had tuna curry and chicken on the menu. After lunch at approximately 1430 hrs we tourists were entertained by young local Minicoy women performing the local "Bandiya Dance".It was a blazing hot afternoon and was amazed to see these young women perform various dance sequences on the open beach front without any shade.A part of the dance sequence also resembled the Gujarati folk dance called "Dandiya" proving the cultural harmony and diversity that is Sub-Continent India.After viewing the "Bandiya Dance" at approximately 1545 hrs  we tourists were next driven  to the largest village in Minicoy called Palleyserey Village.

" Bandiya Dance " performed by 
Minicoy Women.

From North to South there are a total of 11 villages on Minicoy Island.A beautiful long original  "Jahadhoni(Minicoy Snake Boat)" with oars was beautifully  showcased at the entrance of the village commune.This boat had the village  name "PALLEYSEREY" written across its side .On Minicoy Island most of the men folk are employed on ships and its the womenfolk who manage the house , a matriarchal form of society.We were offered tea along with the local snack of peas vegetable samosa and steamed  rice /coconut pancake wrapped in a leaf called "Fookuthu" and which we Mangalorean's called "Patholi".Different regions of India and different cultures but similarity in cuisine .
Original "Jahadhoni Boat" in Palleyserey Village of Minicoy.Palleyserey is the largest village in population among the 11 villages in Minicoy.The Jahadhoni boats of Minicoy are designed like the "Snake Boats" of Kerala and all the 11 villages in Minicoy have their own Jahadhoni boats. A annual race is held in Minicoy in which the village boats compete against each other and this boat named "PALLEYSEREY" has won races.

A glimpse of Palleyserey village commune 
on Minicoy Island.The largest among the 
eleven villages in Minicoy.

Incredible India. After tea a lady of this village commune spoke to us in Hindi and Malayalam regarding the village life and social living structure of Minicoy.As Minicoy is close to Maldives their culture is similar to Maldive culture. Divehi which is a mix of Sinhalese and Urdu  popularly known as Mahl  is  the  local language of Minicoy Islanders. Malayalam and Hindi are also spoken as mandatory languages.
Finally after the village tour we returned back to ship at 1715 hrs.Excellently organized shore sightseeing and adventure water sports.Set sail for Agatti and dinner was at 2000 hrs as usual.My stomache upset had stabilized after the amazing view of exotic fish species during snorkeling and dinner was frugal sweet/ sour chicken/ 2 chappatis/ sweet dish.Food on M.V.Kavaratti is
no limit self service but as far as culinary taste is concerned my home food is port’s ahead. Ahoy !.
Visit Lakshadweep Archipalego only if you are fascinated by the sea, corals, beautiful beaches , snorkeling , scuba diving and other water sports. Here we 6 "SNORKELERS" of "Samudram Package Tour" are returning back to Agatti beach after a snorkeling session in the deep sea above  a fortification of coral bed's.Made "Snorkeling Friends" and the couple seated at the back wearing hats are Britisher's  Mrs Divya.Chari of Indian origin  and her British  husband Mr Mathew.Angus.Mrs Divya.Chari also freelances  as a travel journalist for a magazine. They are the rare couple who are on a mission of touring the World and have visited numerous exotic country's and natural wild life reserves like Galapagos islands.
According to them in India Andaman's offers one of the World's best Dive and snorkeling sites in the World. Check my travelogue of Maldives :- https://snorkellmaldives.blogspot.com/


Glimpse of coral on sea bed  from "Glass Bottom Boat"

Sunday (12/3/2023)Agatti Island :-
For the first time after departure from  Mumbai had my normal 4 + hrs sleep.Sea was calm as a lake and my single cabin had excellent A/C cooling as did the entire ship taking into consideration the number of tourist passengers travelling.As a former ship Marine engineer i did have some idea of the manpower and skill involved in maintaining the central A/c System of this ship let alone the propulsion which is a different engineering maintenance chapter by itself. Ahoy !Most of the tourists were families from different parts of India travelling together like  Mr Bibhuti. Biswas family from Bengal who was travelling with his wife and college going son and daughter and through whose intervention I got this plush single accommodation "First Class"  cabin. Mr Biswas  wanted all his family members to be in the same cabin” No365”
A view of Agatti Beach Resort. Notice the shimmering spotless white fine grained sand.Indescribably beautiful and the best beach for swimming at any tide.Notice the "Life Buoy" as a museum exhibit on the beach.This beach which is deceptively calm has deep waters just away from the dry sand.

.I was the odd tourist in the 4 bed second class cabin while his daughter was in another cabin.Hence my upgradation from “ Second Class- 4 bed ” to “ First class – Private cabin ” on the same deck . Double promotion ! Life is bizarre and unplanned at times.
"LIFE BUOY" on Agatti Beach!
Authentic "Life Buoy" normally 
seen floating on ocean passages as 
"Shipping Lane Guides"

The only difference between “ First Class” and “ Second Class” cabins is " bed’s / cabin " which in “ First Class” is 2 tourists to one cabin. Also mostly all  “ First Class” cabins are on a higher deck which is the 4th Deck of the ship  except a few like mine which was on 3rd deck  of the ship. The Bridge (Navigation control ) is on the topmost 6th deck of the ship.There is a "Helipad" on the 6th deck  extreme aft  of the ship. The distance between Minicoy and Agatti is 300 Km( 161 Nautical miles) and our ship  anchored off Agatti coast at approximately  0630 hrs in absolute calm waters. The  topographical shape of  Agatti island as seen from sea is similar to Minicoy  and at 7.6 Km in length, smaller  than Minicoy. Agatti island total area is 3.141 SQ Km while the uninhabited Kalpatti Island has a area of  0.085 Sq Km  Agatti Island is  459 Km off the West coast of Kochi and is the only island that has a small airport and hence the gateway for high spending  tourists to the Lakshadweep Archipalego .In fact there was a plan to join Agatti Airport Runway with Kalpatti island to create a longer runway for jet aircrafts but the same abandoned as it would result in destruction of a turtle colony.For once Conservation efforts triumphed over  tourism profit economics..Kavaratti Island , the Capital of Lakshadweep is only 54 Km from Agatti Island.On anchoring a small motorboat “ Uwaisal Qarni” came alongside embarkation  Deck( 1st Deck) and a few of ships passengers were the first to head onto terra firma Agatti Island.There was also a announcement on the Intercom speaker system regarding some medical casualty to be taken ashore. The ship has a doctor on attendance as do all passenger ship's and separate  male and female hospital ward room's  on the Port side of the ship.
Floating Pontoon in mid sea away
from beach used as " SNORKELERS 
PLATFORM".Excellent Coral reef  
on sea bed in this vicinity , the natural
feeding grounds and shelter
of various fish species. 
Agatti Beach water vicinity is famous
for turtle sightings and we spotted 
numerous turtles during the glass
Bottom boat ride.During snorkeling 
didn't sight any turtles.Notice the 
visibilty in the clear lagoon water.

At 0745 hrs boarded the launch and on reaching shore which was a short 10 minutes ride was checked for attendance at the wharf jetty by a  Samudram Tourist official.Deposited our life vests at the wharf Jetty station  and was transported by “ Tata Venture” van’s to the Beach tourist resort. Enrolled for glass bottom boat ride which was complimentary offerered  in the "Samudram Tour Package".. On Agatti Island “ Airtel” Internet service  was available but not “ Jio Network”, surprising that “ Reliance”
conglomerate had yet to venture into Lakshadweep Islands .B.S.N.L phone network was  available on all the tourists Islands while  Agatti airport had daily flights from Bangalore ,Calicut and Kochi..It was absolutely low tide at the beach and on the beach they have floating pontoons used as gangway for tourists to board and alight the launches.
At Agatti Beach resort was first  in queue for the glass bottom boat ride a excellent boat ride through crystal clear waters with the Coral sea bed forming a dark shadow when seen from a distance.First sea wildlife identified was a sea cucumber and came across numerous large sea turtles , for the first time in my life seeing such a large number in one location and not a aquarium..
Can you spot the TURTLE ?
Silhouette of turtle as it swims
past our "Glass Bottom Boat".

Absolute basic “ Scuba Diving “ was available at Agatti Island and a few tourists who had booked on the day of joining the cruise joined the small group heading to the Suba diving site.Cost of Scuba diving for 15-20 minutes was Rs 3000 .If you want to get a first time experience of “ Scuba Diving” then this expensive dive excursion is mandatory as it is once in a lifetime chance of experiencing underwater breathing and a view of the aquatic life.If a upper budget tourist intending making underwater diving a hobby post-retirement age or change of profession  then my advice  is to do a complete Scuba dive "PADI" or "SSI" certified course and later actually experience and appreciate authentic amateur or even professional Scuba diving.I had done my Scuba diving "SSI" course in 2014 at Tulamben in Bali  but failed a important underwater "Safety Test" where if not for my French Instructor would have drowned  and hence was not certified as a full fledged diver and later didn't have the time to do a refresher course for official  certification.Today in 2023 i am a daredevil "SNORKELER" and time permitting could snorkel for hours. Expensive ,but, if you have a undiscovered aptitude for the subject then could also make a career in “ Scuba Diving”.Besides, there is no upper age retirement  with the minimum age limit being 8 years nor a "6+ Pack" physique or athletic prowess  requirement to be a professional scuba diver.


Ageing Golfer's would understand Scuba diving better. Later booked a seat for the snorkeling session and similar to Minicoy Island was taken on a launch onto a floating pontoon for snorkeling. There were 5 of us in total , British couple Mathew.Angus and Divya.Chari  along with another 2 tourists and self. The experience at Minicoy was much better in variety of fish, most notably large parrot fish and came across a shoal of yellow coloured fish swimming above the coral bed.Was distressed to spot a plastic package lying in the midst of the beautiful bed of coral.Returning back to the beach tea/Samosa was served at 1100 hrs.Excellent white sand beach .

Agatti villagers performing the "Parichkali Dance"
Songs were sung in Malayalam.

Later did some own snorkeling at the beach and was surprised to know that the depth of the beach bed although gradual is quite high in  close proximity to the sparkling white dry land sand .Advice non – swimmers and children to be careful at Agatti beach as the beach depth is quite deceptive although calm and serene with no waves akin to a swimming pool. Even with the tide rising there were  no waves lashing against the Beach.Remember the quote, "Still waters run deep".Hence it’s the perfect beach for swimming both in low and high tide akin to a swimming pool but make sure you are confident of your swimming prowess or wear a life float belt as the current can cause a person to drift away from land.

Spotted a few empty plastic bags on the white sand sea bed but no fish except a few small ornamental  fish near the boarding jetty pontoon
Buffet lunch at Agatti beach resort

.Amazingly salvaged some great hidden sea treasure near the pontoon finding a Rs 20 note on the sea bed.The same will be treasured memorabilia in my “ Travels collection". You can’t say you have visited the Lakshadweep Islands if you have not drunk a fresh tender  coconut juice. At the beach resort after the snorkle swim and salvaging a Rs 20 note from the sea bed had a tender coconut juice drink costing Rs 40 .Small size coconuts with thick kernel.Lunch was at 1300 hrs on a different section of the beach with “ Tuna curry/ Fry tuna ” being the main non- veg menu.
After lunch local entertainment was the Malayalam “ Ulekmutt Dance” performed by men.A
complicated dance to the tune of chiming of bells and wooden poles banged against each other by 2
men seated on the sand on either side and a male dancer doing the Hop- Step dance inserting his legs in-between the poles .A slight misjudgment could result in injury . Later a few tourists also danced the tune on assistance from the men folk dancers. Later these men performed a sword dance called "Parichkali Dance".Got hooked onto the tender coconut juice and had a total of 3 coconuts.Picked up a conversation with young French tourist Christophe from Marseilles in France on a tour of India.
"Golden Jubilee Museum" building in Agatti.This is the only museum on the entire Lakshadweep Archipelago.

Jagdhoni on display at "Golden Jubilee Museum"
in Agattii.

He had previously backpacked for almost a year, a real privilege and not uncommon among young First World citizens.Most “ First World Country Citizens” get “ Visa on arrival” to a maximum number of Country’s which makes travel less cumbersome as more than a travel bank balance it is “ Visa Procedures” that makes travel very restrictive and cumbersome for Indian passport holders and Citizens from Developing Country’s.Finally after tea we bid goodbye to “ Agatti Beach resort” and on our way back to the Boat jetty ferry stopped at “ Golden Jubilee Museum”.Sculptures of traditional Minicoy sail boats called "Jagdhoni" was on display as were , pots ,wooden chests and busts of Lord Buddha.A very small museum and the only museum in entire Lakshadweep Archipelago
"ICAR -National Bureau of Fish Genetic Resources" in Agatti. Photography was not allowed.

.Our next stop was at the "ICAR -National Bureau of Fish Genetic Resources"”which had fish tanks akin to a fish farm and photography prohibited. Most of the fish were ornamental fish. .
Entrance to "Agatti Airport"
Only airport on Lakshadweep Islands

Cycling is a common mode of transport and spotted a group of young local girls cycling on the narrow village road.Saw a rare sight of a young probably school going girl riding her cycle double seat giving her much younger brother a cycle- lift..Lakshadweep society is matriarchal and women play a major role in the family affairs. Finally on our way from "Fish Research museum" to "Anthan Beach" we passed alongside landmark "Agatti Airport".At 1615 hrs on arrival at  “ Anthan Beach” we tourists had a rest /photography break on the beach resort which had a canteen.At 1700 hrs finally assembled at the boat jetty and at 1720 hrs back at home sweet home on the high seas “ M.V.Kavaratti “.My single room/ two bed cabin was akin to a 5- star room,neat and with all cabin amenities in spick and span condition.Ship cabin’s are well maintained most importantly the air-conditioning and toilet/ Bathe amenities. After bathe dozed a bit and dinner was at 2030 hrs on a diet of 2 chapatti’s/ Chicken dish/fruit salad/ Gulab Jamun
 Anthan Beach resort on Agatti Island

.After dinner strolled on main deck which is the 3rd Deck and was flooded with 23 years of  sailing nostalgia.Although Shipping rules/ regulations , machinery and ship staff wages has changed by leaps and bounds since I last sailed on a “ Bombay High” off- shore sailing vessel in 2006 the basic fundamentals and engine room machinery functioning would still be the same." A SHIP IS A SHIP AND HAS TO MOVE MECHANICALLY ON WATER".  Engineer officers and engine crew keep a ship moving while the Navigation officers and navigation crew maintain the  ship's direction .
A view of spotless white and clean Anthan Beach

.Once upon a time from 1983 upto 2006 I was one of the engineering officers keeping a sailing vessel mechanically functional and here I was now a “ Cruise Tourist” experiencing the luxury of sea travel.Honestly as a “ Cruise Tourist” irrespective of the ship being a ultra luxury “ Wonder  of the Seas” or a average middle class Cruise ship like “ M.V.Kavaratti “ it’s a total different feeling living and visiting ports / Islands as a tourist than as a shipboard employee.I have the luxury to comment as i have seen both sides of the coin on sailing on a ship. Ahoy !
Entrance to Koomel Beach Resort on Kalpeni Island.


You cannot leave Lakshadweep Islands
without sipping a Tender coconut.
At Koomel  Beach resort in Kalpeni
.

Monday(13/3/2023) Kalpeni Island : -
 The distance between Agatti and Kalpeni is 181 Km ( 98 Nautical miles) and our ship reached Kalpeni Anchorage sometime early morning.From Anchorage a similar view as of Minicoy and Agatti and the lighthouse of Kalpeni which has a height of  37 meters( 121 ft)  was a prominent landmark flashing in the distance. Long narrow strip of island whose most prominent feature is the lighthouse.Vegetation is dense coconut plantation.Kalpeni is considered the most socially progressive islands of Lakshadweep as it was on this island that girl's first went to school when women's education was considered taboo. As usual after breakfast went to the embarkation platform on Deck No 1 and boarded the launch to Kalpeni boat jetty.A very short boat ride of 10 minutes after which we boarded our motorized transport to Koomel Beach resort where all the water sports are conducted including scuba diving..

Visit to Hosiery Factory on Kalpeni Island.
Souvenir shirts and handicrafts 

We were welcomed with a coconut water drink and told of a change in programme.As it was absolutely low tide water sports schedule was shifted to post lunch .At Low tide we could see the huge storm bank of coral boulders  that barricades Pitti and Tilakkam islands like a fortress wall.It is presumed that in 1847 a huge storm threw up this coral boulders ashore that are now distinctly visible at Low tide akin to a boundary  wall. Hence morning would be visiting hosiery factory. and later after lunch would be visiting Pitti Island for snorkeling. There is another island next to it called Tilakkam Island – No 2 and behind it Tilakkam Island No 3.Tilakkam Island – No 1 has been reclaimed by the sea and with Global warming and increase in Sea levels the sinking of Island lands is becoming a reality.

Was surprised to realize  that I was not the oldest tourist in the package Samudram Tour as many couples were definitely past 60 or 70’s and along with prime language Malayalam also heard tourists speaking, Tamil, Kannada ,Bengali, Gujarati and Hindi , cosmopolitan India on Lakshadweep Samudram Tour.
View of "Coral Storm Boundary"
wall approaching Pitti Island 
in Kalpeni for snorkeling.



Hilariously a North Indian v/s South Indian argument developed between a young Delhite and a elderly Tamilian Senior citizen.It was akin to watching a free entertainment play and as usual normalcy returned after a brief argument.Incredible India with Unity in Diversity. Later was driven  to the hosiery shop and purchased 2 Souvenir T-Shirts.Later returned back to Koomel  beach resort and at 0945 hrs had a solo snorkel near the pontoon jetty.Spotted and petted a few sea cucumbers and spotted a few exotic ornamental  fish near the anchor of the mooring jetty on a coral reef.Excellent water  clarity. Again water sports plans changed and at at 1045 hrs we were taken on a boat to Pitti Island which was previously planned for after lunch .As the tide was gradually changing from low to high had some difficulty in maneuvering our boat through the barricade storm bounday  wall of Coral boulders .
Unbelievable sheltered "SNORKELING LAGOON" on Pitti Island in Kalpeni.The tide was gradually rising and the "Coral Storm boundary " wall is still visible.Water depth is waist deep and numerous ornamental and medium size fish visible in the shallow water as tide rises.The real big fish hide inside the Coral boundary wall that gets completely submerged at Full Tide.

Returning back to Koomel beach resort from
Pitti Island after snorkeling at Full Tide .
The "Coral Storm Boundary" wall is 
totally submerged and invisible.


Finally did manage to squeeze our launch into the shallow lagoon with crystal clear water visibility .Worse was the barefoot walk along the shoreline of Pittii Island riddled with coral and hence wearing of sandals is essential when visiting Pitti Island of Kalpeni.Finally after a short careful walk reached the “ SNORKLE POINT” on Pittii island where all tourists were given individual snorkels free of charge which was included in the package.Since I was carrying my own snorkle kit immediately headed into the lagoon.Brought back memories of Maldives in sighting of various ornamental fish in literally chest deep water
Buffet Lunch at Koomel Beach resort.

.Snorkled onto the barrier reef of coral wall that was gradually getting submerged as the tide increased.Discovered a Wonderworld  of exotic ornamental fish as also a few mid size fish.Water was just chest deep and I spent an hour snorkeling and exploring the entire circumference of the lagoon coral boulder  boundary wall .A hilarious Clown fish found me a different fish species and circled me, a identical encounter copy with a clown fish in Maldives.Sighted a large beautiful exotically coloured fish, the lone ranger of its species in the vicinity.Later looking into the crevices of the lagoon coral boulders  spotted a huge fish that literally stared at me from  a few feet hidden in a crevice , least afraid of fleeing from  my approach.It probably presumed i couldn't see it but later i myself  retreated a little away as  this fish resembled a piranha or tiger fish type of species and hence didn’t want to take a chance of being bitten by it in self defense or if it presumed I was a tasty piece of food.Finally after satisfying my snorkeling safari went back to the Boat and in peak high tide headed the short distance back to Koomel beach resort with the formidable coral boulder wall totally submerged in water
Kolkali-Parichakali folk dance by 
villagers of Kalpeni at Koomel beach  resort.

.Lunch at 1300 hrs was chicken curry/ Tuna fish fry/ rice and a sweet dish. After lunch as usual there was local folk dance entertainment.A group of men did "Kolkali-Parichakali" dance with sword's  and shields  similar to the men folk of Agatti Island.Later they did a dance identical to Gujarati style Dandiya with sticks akin to the  dance enacted by the women of Minicoy.This was  my last day on Lakshadweep Island and having now seen and stepped on every geographical region of India only one quote seems abrupt to describe the Indian Subcontinent, “ Multicultural, Multilingual and Multireligious with unity in diversity.”


At the Northern most bounday of Kalpeni Island.
This narrow strip of land is called "North End Tip Beach"
or just "Tip Beach".
"One Coconut Tree" island seen in background.
Indescribable natural beauty of Sand and sea.
Most popular beach  on Kalpeni for diving/snorkeling.
Blazing hot afternoon Sun.

Later in the afternoon we were driven in vans on a sightseeing trip across the beautiful coconut plantation villages of Kalpeni passing alongside a school, Juma Masjid Mosque, Kalpeni Helipad and finally to the northern most end of Kalpeni called North End Tip  Beach or simply as "Tip Beach"..This is the most famous beach of Kalpeni and is used for Scuba diving and snorkeling. "North End Tip Beach"or "Tip Beach"  is a absolutely scenic beach with a unique “ One - Coconut Tree Island” as a landmark at the extreme end of Kalpeni Island akin to the  "Two - Tree Coconut Island" at entrance to Minicoy island.Came across numerous Hermit  crabs using dead sea shells as a Armour plate to move around.Finally returned back to Koomal beach and tea time was “ Patholi/ Tea”, a typical Mangalorean specialty in distant Lakshadweep Islands.
Note :- In the Video below a glimpse of a "HERMIT CRAB" hiding in a sea shell on "North End Tip Beach".Numerous "Hermit Crabs" on the sparkling white sand of "Tip Beach".

.Travel educates.At 1745 hrs left our resort and headed to the island boat jetty.

On arriving at the boat jetty was surprised to see M.V.Kavaratti heading towards anchorage after making a quick trip to nearby Andrott Island  and back to Kalpeni. Andrott Island is only 71 Km( 39 Nautical Miles) away from Kalpeni.
Relaxing on "North End Tip " Beach
on Kalpeni Island akin to 
owning this tiny strip of  beach land.
Understood the meaning of 
owning your own island.

A hectic time schedule to be maintained by the ship’s staff and the average marine engineer’s engine room maintenance job on board this vessel ,especially junior engineer’s was definitely hectic and definitely not a cruise vacation. Boarded the launch and it was a short 10 minutes launch ride to M.V.Kavaratti and back to my plush cabin with A/C a real solace from the humid heat once out of the beach water.Ship heaved anchor and began sailing for Kochi at approximately 1915 hrs.End of a memorable snorkel as well as sightseeing travel across Minicoy, Agatti and Kalpeni.Today’s last day dinner of “ Chicken Biryani” was probably the best main meal served on the ship during the entire 5 day  tour. Excellent .According to my opinion the best meal on board M.V.Kavaratti was the daily morning breakfast.Had a decent 4 hrs sleep akin to being at home , only difference I was on a ship on
the high seas.Excellent cabin accommodation especially when you are a tourist and not a employee .
All good cruises come to a end and here we tourists are in queue to board the launch from Kalpeni wharf to our floating home "M.V.Kavaratti".Here tourists are boarding the launch.

Throughout my 23 years service on sailing vessels of different types, sizes and  trade routes always had a individual cabin to myself  but life as a engineer on any ship is not a sea cruise akin to "M.V.Kavaratti".Ahoy !
In my nomadic home away from home on "M.V.Kavaratti".A glimpse of the inside view of "Cabin No 608" situated at the forward end(Bow) of the ship on the 3rd Deck.This is a "First Class Cabin" having 2 beds and excellent A/C and Bathroom/Toilet facilities.

A view of the "Embarkation/Disembarkation" Doors
Situated just above the "Plimsoll" line markings
of the ship.

Tuesday(14/3/2023) Arrival Kochi and By- Bye “ M.V.Kavaratti " :-
Kochi is 287 Km(155nautical miles) from Kalpeni . Morning tea was at 0600 hrs as usual and was amazed at the calmness of the sea and stability of ship “ M.V.Kavaratti “. Absolutely no slight rolling let alone pitching and much comfortable than air travel let alone bus or train travel.No wonder the Ultra wealthy retired folks of First World Country’s and now even India prefer the luxury of  “CRUISE TRAVEL”.If you have  a little above average Bank balance and  retired or young and self employed in the internet era with  ample time at your personal disposal for travel then my advice is get addicted to “ CRUISE TRAVEL”.
Helipad of "M.V.Kavaratti" 
situated on the  6th deck behind the
funnel of the ship.

On board our group tour among the few individuals I came across and struck a conversation was a B.A.R.C scientist and a former pharmaceutical  Conglomerate head in his  80's  age range  travelling along with his wife.Age is just a number for a few.  Many were travelling with their kids and 180+ tourists is definitely a large  number in a package tour . Hope middle class “ CRUISE TOURISM” booms in other tourist ports as well.Suddenly after a gap of 4 days received my " Reliance jio" Internet signal and at last was breathing  phone and internet connectivity . Never in my life since the introduction of cell phones and later Internet had I been cut out of phone/ Internet connectivity  for such a long period of time.Checked my messages as also social websites.Honestly if not for the " INTERNET" I would not have become a self employed entrepreneur nor travelled Solo across the globe let alone India.Ahoy ! Cruise travel is convenient,economical and something different in comparison to other formats of  mass package tourism. Last breakfast on board M.V.Kavaratti was “ Spaghetti/ Scrambled eggs/ cornflakes". On the entire cruise relished the breakfast menu which was part continental part Indian.Ship docked at Ernakulam harbour on Willingdon island at 0800 hrs and at 0900 hrs bid goodbye to a excellent cruise on board “ M.V.Kavaratti “ and headed out of Ernakulam Port gate.

There were numerous Autorickshaw’s outside with mind-boggling hire charges of a minimum of Rs 300 from Ernakulam wharf  to High Court Junction.
Tuesday(14/3/2023) :- End of the "5 Day Lakshadweep Samudram cruise" and having disembarked the  cruise ship the nomadic  journey continues on land.What is life if not a continuous journey .

"M.V.Kavaratti" docked at Ernakulam Wharf
on Willingdon Island.

Barring speaking or understanding Malayalam language I could be mistaken for a local Kochiite and hence asking directions walked the short distance from Ernakulam Port to Willingdon Island Boat Jetty.Purchased a boat ticket costing only Rs 6 and luxuriously travelled the short distance by Ferry .Enroute to Ernakulam Jetty was at the “ Right Place at the Right Time” to see a Indian Navy frigate drill of a commando rescue of a ship by means of a inflatable speed boat.On arrival at Ernakulam Boat Jetty walked the short distance to the bus stop and boarded a empty bus and at a ticket of Rs 10 alighted at High Court Juction.After the now familiar walk to “ St Antonys Lodge “ on Basin Road  was allotted “ Room No 6” with a excellent view of Kerala's largest banana market and the dirtiest navigable Basin Canal that if clean  could have  been on par with a few of the canal's of Venice in Italy .On Wednesday(15/3/2023) boarded the "1636 Nethravathi Express" to Mumbai  with the "Nomad " finally at home in Mumbai the next day with the  ambition of travel across India realized in my lifetime of travels.

Note :- Identical to Lakshadweep Archipelago in India is the Maldive Islands that is a paradise for "SOLO SNORKELING" and "SCUBA DIVING"   . Check my travelogue if wanting to visit Maldives on a budget :- https://snorkellmaldives.blogspot.com/ 


Visiting Minicoy, Agatti and Kalpeni Islands of Lakshadweep by cruise ship "M.V. Kavaratti"

  Finally with ticket in hand and cruise ship " M.V.Kavaratti " docked alongside  at Mattancherry wharf will be realizing my dream...